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What’s better than one Anchor Trolley….Two! » YakFisher Blog



May 11

What’s better than one Anchor Trolley….Two!

A couple of trips out in my Hobie Pro Angler made me realize why the average aircraft carrier anchor weighs 30 tonnes.  Regardless of the conditions, you’re going to need something to help keep you stationary.

First off, I have to give credit where credit is due. After looking online at all the rigging options, then seeing this video on Youtube, I really liked some of the ideas this guy had for outfitting his PA.  Have a watch…


The video cannot be shown at the moment. Please try again later.


I decided that I was going to try running the same length of trolleys on top of the PA.  One, by running it on top I don’t have to worry (as much) about getting hooks caught on it.  Two, by running two trolleys I will be able to orientate myself by attaching my anchor to either side so a single trolley doesn’t have to run full length of the boat.

So off I go down to Fogh Marine and pick up a few goodies (more blogs to follow) including a Hobie anchor trolley system.  I pulled all the bits and pieces out of the bag, proceeded to find mounting spots for the blocks (pulleys), mark the mounting holes and drill 1/8″ pilot holes.  Next, I grab the drill with the next size bit, and just before I enlarge the holes, I figured it would be best if I check to make sure I can get to where the bolts will poke through the inside of the hull to mount the lock nuts….#&&^%$#@^!!!!!!  Not only can’t I reach the holes at the back of the boat, the holes in the front location are drilled into solid foam.  Good planning on my part…grrrr…

An alternative solution had to be devised…

Looking at what was in the Hobie kit, and some queues from the video, I sourced out the following hardware from Fogh:

  • 4 Blocks
  • 2 Flair leads
  • 2 – 1 1/2″ rings
  • 12 Hobie well nuts
  • 30 ft of 3/16″ shock cord
  • Assorted lengths of 10-32 screws
  • 16ga stainless wire (Cdn Tire)


The well nuts will allow you to insert them into a 3/8″ hole and then by tightening the screw it will compress the rubber and expand the base, allowing for a tight fit.  These really saved me.

Proceeding on…I enlarged the four mounting holes in the hull with a 3/8″ bit to accept the diameter of the well nuts.

As these nuts only fit a 10-24 bolt, the holes in the blocks had to be enlarged to 3/16″.  Bore these out in stages.  These are expensive and you don’t want to crack them.  A bonus was that these Ronstan blocks were of the same spacing as the Hobie’s blocks.

Assemble the blocks as shown, and mount into the holes.  You can use a drill to initially tighten them, but use a screwdriver to snug them up.




Next is mounting the shock cord.  I decided to use only shock cord rather than rope+shock cord as I wanted something with a bit more stretch.  I also wanted one solid piece of cord.  To assemble the trolley….

  1. Cut 1 1/2″ piece of shrink tube and slide down the cord
  2. Loop the cord through the stainless ring
  3. Double the cord back on itself and using 16ga. wire make about 8 turns around them.  Cut the wire, but be sure to bend the ends into the cord
  4. Slide the shrink tube over and heat.


As you will want a taught trolley line, and to make it easier to tie off, stretch the cord 16-18 inches and then clamp it with vise grips. Repeat the same four steps above.

Next, on the inside line, to better guide the line, use 1/4″ electrical eyelets from Canadian tire.  I happen to use those in conjunction with a Harken Flairleads.

Lastly, you need to be able to secure your shock cord otherwise you won’t be able to maintain the orientation you desire on the water.  Again, using well nuts and 5mm Bush Ferruled assemble as shown, drill a 3/8″ hole, and screw down.


When on the water and you’re happy with the position of your boat, loop it over to secure the line…


One trolley down, one to go.  Repeat all the steps above again, for the second trolley.

The finished product…



During our recent visit to Lake Simcoe I used my anchor and tied off on the right hand side of the PA. It work flawlessly. I was able to position my self exactly the way I wanted, and when the line became taught, there was no sudden jerking as the limits of the shock cord were reached. Now I just need to source and try out a stake out pole!





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